So you are thinking about finishing that basement and actually using some of that exercise equipment that is doubling as a laundry line right now. Maybe you want to have a billiard room instead of a Christmas ornament depot. Maybe it isn’t the basement your thinking of finishing maybe it is that garage carport thing you want to turn into another bedroom. Hey it’s only storing a motorcycle you haven’t ridden in three years anyway. Whatever the reason you are thinking about finishing an unfinished area of your house the question always becomes do I need a building permit for that? Usually the answer that question is usually yes with a capital Y. Let me see if I can explain.
As a home inspector in Charlotte NC for over 15 year I have seen my share of unpermitted additions and rooms being finished. The dead giveaway that it wasn’t permitted is that the space has been added but the HVAC is still the same size as before. Sadly I have seen people try to get these permitted later only to find the code inspector had them strip of the drywall so he could see the plumbing and the electrical wiring. This is sad position to be in.
You might say well why even bother with a permit. First of all if there is a leak or fire insurance might well deny your claim if there is an unpermitted addition. Also you might have trouble selling your house with an unpermitted addition. It is the law. It is also possible that the county could file a lien on you for back property taxes for under reporting square footage. So when is a permit needed.
1. Any work on your house over $5000
2. The addition, replacement or repair of load bearing members or structures.
3. The extension, alteration, or installation of any plumbing system.
4. The alteration, extension, or installation of any heating or cooling system.
5. The use of material not included in the code
6. The addition of roofing, excluding replacement of like grade of fire resistant roofing.
No you may get a contractor who tells you don’t need a permit. He may say you will only wind up paying higher property taxes. The reality is that he might not even be licensed, bonded, or insured. He doesn’t want somebody checking up on him and he maybe planning to take some shortcuts. If you have a contractor spewing some garbage like that, don’t walk, run away from him. Remember that you as the property owner will be ultimately responsible for these repairs and the contractor will have been paid and long gone.
So go ahead get that solo flex dusted off and finish that basement or garage but remember to get a permit. If you use a contractor make sure he is licensed, ensured and bonded. Make sure he pulls and closes all necessary permits. Many property permits can be checked online these days. If you have any permit or home inspection questions please visit our website at Charlotte NC Home Inspector and Ask the Charlotte Inspector.

While perfoming an inspection matthews home inspector Preston Sandlin found a dent in the tilled shower which was really odd because backer board would not allow a dent like this. Well it turns out that this tile was actually mounted on drywall instead of boakboard whick is a big no no. All of this tile in this walk in shower will have to be pulled down. Backer board will have to be installed and then it will need to be retiled.
If you need home inspection information or you are in need of a great home inspector in the Charlotte, Huntersville, Matthews, Belmont Concord, Fort Mill or Rock Hill areas contact Home Inspection Carolina http://www.homeinspectioncarolina.com . The have performed over 23,432 home inspection and will not let you buy the money pit. We have over 100 years of combined home inspection and construction experience. Please give us a call (704) 542-6575

Preston Sandlin
Home Inspection Carolina

Have you ever been told there is no such thing as a hot water heater? I must have heard this a thousand times growing up. The water is not hot before it goes into the water heater. The people who told us this were actually right but I would make me so mad when they would say this because I think they just wanted to be a smart alec. You can call it a hot water heater and I want give you a hard time.
There are basically two types of water heaters or hot water heaters if you prefer. There is gas and electric. You can tell which type you have by looking at the top and bottom of the unit. A gas unit will have a metal flue and possibly a draft hood. The gas unit will also have a gas line with a cut off (hopefully) at the bottom with a burner. Also if the gas unit is in the garage it should be “18 off of the floor for safety reasons. If you have an electric unit it doesn’t have to be off of the floor. The electric unit will not have gas line or a flue but it will have a 220 line in a conduit going into the top of it.
When inspecting an electric water heater one of the first things you want to check is the water temperature. Most manufacturers have the temps preset to 100-150 degrees F. You have to keep in mind that if the water is over 120 degrees F it can scold a small child. We usually write it up if it over 120. You check the temperature of the water by using a digital meat thermometer in the hot water as it is coming out a faucet preferably close to the water heater. The next thing you want to check for is a reverse water-line installation. You can tell whether the installation is reversed by touching the pipe and comparing it the hot outlet fitting at the top of the tank. If it’s cold where it says hot and hot where cold it’s reversed. A reversed connection results in inefficient operation of the heater. When the inlet-outlet is connection is reversed, the cold water enters the tank at the top and mixes with the hot water as it settles to the bottom near the outlet fitting. So for the same thermostat setting the temperature of the hot water is lower than it otherwise would have been. The next thing you need to check is the element and the thermostat. There are checker for these that can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot. I think it is important to note here that you must turn the electricity off to do this. Another thing that you should know is that if you turn on a water heater with no water in it you will burn out the element. This is something you definitely want to keep in mind if you are dealing with a foreclosure in which the power and the water have been off for awhile.
An internal part of the water heater that you can’t see is the anode rod. It is usually made out magnesium and attracts any corrosives or oxidizers in the water. This saves the tank from oxidation. It is hard to see or inspect this rod without taking the water heater apart to do so. The way you test for this is to run the hot water and smell it for a sulfur smell. You obviously check for leaks and pay particular attention to the joints in the pipes. If two dissimilar metals are touching each other without some sort of dielectric connection, electrolysis will occur resulting in corrosion and then a leak. There is a drain at the bottom of the water heater that you periodically want to drain out settlement. Near the top of the water heater you should see a temperature relief valve or TPR valve. What this does is let off steam if the unit malfunctions and continues to heat the water. The spring in the relief valve will depress and release the pressure to keep the unit from exploding. There are set for certain temperature and a certain pressure which is stamped on the side of the valve. Sometimes after a couple of years the spring goes bad and this will leak. These are relatively inexpensive to replace.
For a gas water heater everything is pretty much the same except that instead of a heating element you have a burner at the bottom of the tank that should be checked for corrosion and rust flaking. The gas line should be checked for leaks. This can be done is a gas leak detector or bubbly water. The draft should be checked for CO with a detector. Also the flue should not be in direct contact with wood or drywall (or any o the flammable material for that matter. I hope this gives you a better understanding of how to check water heaters. I will talk extensively about thankless water heaters in another writing. The next time someone correct with the old “no such thing as a hot water heater” You can ask them something like what does an anode rod do on a water heater. For more info on water heaters check out the audio at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/the-charlotte-home-inspector or http://www.charlottenchomeinspector.com .

Question: What might cause standing water in my yard?

Answer: If your yard, or some portion of it, remains wet and soggy for extended periods after periods after a rain shower, it probably means the natural drainage ways have been blocked and have settled, and there isn’t enough grade in your yard to allow water to drain properly.

Most yards were originally graded so that water was able to flow from the front of the home to the street and from the back of the home into a ditch or storm sewer. Patios, walkways, mounds of mulch or planted beds, and even tress can add to the raising of the ground surface.

If this is the case, you may need to consider installing subsurface drainage around your yard. In addition, you should take a good look at ht landscaping around your home. Many homeowners who like a manicured yard are often tempted to mound mulch in plant beds, around trees and against their home’s foundation, for aesthetic purposes, as well as keeping away weeds or undesirable ground cover. How could this affect your yard’s drainage?

Unfortunately, this practice may produce the unintended result of encouraging water to pool in different areas of the yard. If water pools around the foundation, it can cause considerable damage to the home.

The fill around your home should be compacted and graded to slope away from the home for a minimum of ten feet, making the frond six inches lower than the ground surface at the house wall. This will drain surface water away from the wall and help prevent water from standing against the wall. Planting and mulching around outside wall should be done carefully to preserve drainage away from the wall.

Following these tips can lead to a dryer yard and a dryer home.

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Homeowners know that a great deal of energy is required to power heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems, especially once winter or summer electric and gas bills arrive. In fact, as much as half of the energy used in a home goes towards heating and cooling the indoor environment.

The goal of an HVAC system, when operating properly, is to provide a temperate climate and the best possible air quality, delivered for and affordable price. Most homes today are equipped with central air and heating systems that maintain temperatures in al l rooms of a home they service.

Whether a home is new or older, the heating and cooling equipment should always be sized to properly fit the home. Proper equipment sizing is determined by your home’s heat loss during cold weather and heat gains during warm weather, and is calculated using a design load formula. To determine if an HVAC system is the right sixe, homeowners can do their own calculations using software found at the website energystat.gov

A system that is properly sixed will prove to be more cost-efficient than an oversized unit. A unit that is too large will constantly cycle on and off, raising energy costs. Undersized equipment, with airflow that is insufficient, will reduce the efficiency of the air distribution and speed up wear on system components, leading to inadequate room temperatures and equipment failure.

However, installing new equipment isn’t always the answer when homeowners are looking to lower energy bills. Before an HVAC system needs to be replaced, it pays to review routine maintenance issues. One problem that can be remedied easily is stopping air leakage within the home or around air ducts. These leaks can be sources of problems rather than the HVAC equipment itself. The homeowner or a contractor can seal ducts and pipes by using mastic or metal-backed tape, or an aerosol-based sealer. Once any leaks have been sealed, the system can be checked for optimal air flow. When the air flows at proper levels, a home is comfortable and energy bills are more affordable. If air flow is too high, duct leakage increases and the temperature at the register is not sufficient for optimal home comfort. If air flow is too low, air distribution efficiency drops and accelerates the wear on system components, causing discomfort as well as premature failure of equipment.

There are a number of systems that can be checked when trouble-shooting HVAC systems. Thermostat settings can be adjusted to ensure comfort levels are maintained when family members are home and energy is conserved while they are away. Moving parts in the HVAC system can be lubricated for better operation and reduced electricity use. Evaporator and condenser air conditioning coils can be cleaned and air conditioner refrigerant levels can be checked and adjusted.

Homeowners also can extend the life of their system by staying on top of filter maintenance by inspecting, cleaning or changing filters at least once every three months. Filters should be changed monthly during the heavy-use summer and winter months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep family members warm or cool and that wastes energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system which could lead to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure. Routine maintenance can make a big difference in the life and effectiveness of an HVAC system , as well as the cost to maintain a comfortable and healthy home.

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Preston Sandlin of Home Inspection Carolina was recently doing a home inspection in Monroe NC near Charlotte when hw noticed some trouble with the gutter system There are several causes of overflowing gutters. In could be that they are clogged, rusted or leaking at the seams. They might also be loose or sloped the incorrect direction. To find out for sure what the problem might be you need to climb up on a ladder to inspect your gutters.

Overflowing gutters can cause problems worse than just stained siding. The repeated flow of water from overflowing gutters can cause wood siding to rot. A more serious problem can be caused when gutters overflow and water backs up under roofing shingles and flows down inside the wall cavity. Moist conditions like these can also increase the likelihood of termite infestation.

Every homeowner should clean and inspect his or her gutters twice a year: once in late fall and once in the spring. If you cannot do it yourself and cannot afford two cleanings per year, clean your gutters once after the last of the leaves have fallen in late fall. Don’t wait until spring because seeds will have sprouted in the leaves and other organic matter that accumulates in your gutters, which makes them much more difficult to clean.

If you have a single-story house, first use a gutter-cleaning attachment for a leaf blower/vacuum or a wet/dry vacuum. These attachments have a long tube with a U-shaped bend on the end designed to reach into gutters. The ideal time to clean gutters is after a long, dry spell so the debris in the gutters will be dry and more easily sucked into the tube.

Next, climb up on a ladder near the downspout end.
Always have a helper steady the ladder. Move the ladder often and don’t try to reach too far because it is easy to lose your balance.

Wearing gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal or protruding screws clean out the downspout opening and stuff a rag in the opening so debris will not fall into it. A garden trowel works well for scooping out debris.

After you have the gutters cleaned out, remove the rag from the downspout opening. Move the ladder to the other end of the gutter. Flush the gutter with water from a garden hose and observe the flow of the water. It should flow toward the downspout and there should be very little standing water when you turn off the water. Also, check for leaks from beneath the gutters.

If you notice leaky spots, hopefully they are at the seams. You can repair leaking seams with caulk and probably get many more years of service before the gutters need to be replaced. If the leaks are from a non-seam section, the gutters likely need to be replaced.

When water is left standing in the gutter, this means the slope of the gutter is incorrect or it is sagging. Changing the slope is a major job you might not want to tackle yourself. If there is a just a sagging spot, several of the mounting nails have pulled out.

Don’t just drive the nails back into the holes. They may feel tight, but they will pull out during the next rain. Go to your home center and get some long gutter screws made for this purpose. They screw into the old mounting holes and support the gutter. http://www.homeinspectioncarolina.com

During a recent home inspection in Waxhaw Nc by Charlotte home inspector Preston Sandlin, he found exposed raw exterior wood that is going to be vulnerable to the weather which could now delaminate and weather. All exterior wood on a house needs to be primed painted and caulked to be protected. After you’ve cleaned, sanded, and masked, don’t forget the important step of priming exterior surfaces. Bare wood needs a primer to seal the surface. You’ll use less topcoat and the color will lay rich on the top layer. If the surface is new construction or a recent repair, or if you have sanded down to bare surface, apply a high quality primer before painting. Duramax High Performance Exterior Paint does not require a primer over bare surfaces. More on Exterior House & Trim Primers http://www.homeinspectioncarolina.com

Because a garage door can occupy almost 30 percent of a home’s front exterior, more homeowners are paying attention to that large, square attached or next to their home.

Many garages are getting an update, for both design and energy-efficiency purposes. And homeowners are finding that once a garage is more energy-efficient, there are unexpected ways they can better utilize some of that extra space.

In terms of design, the carriage-door has made a comeback, with versions now available in less-expensive, low-maintenance materials such as steel. These doors feature wood-grain composite overlays or embossed patterns to heighten the carriage-house look. Steel doors are a popular choice because they are much easier to maintain than wood, and resist fading and rot due to the elements.

Classic raised panel steel or wood doors are also popular, with updating provided by decorative windows. For the most contemporary of home-styles, aluminum and even glass doors are available.

Energy-efficiency is an important consideration for homeowners, and energy tax credits may be available if you install a better-insulated garage door. (Tax credits reduce tax dollar-for-dollar). To be eligible for the tax credit, the purchased garage door must meet the following criteria:

The door must be an insulated residential garage door, installed on an insulated garage.

The door must have a U-factor (how well a material prevents heat-loss) equal to or less than 0.30, even if the door contains glazing.

If the door contains windows (glazing), the door must offer a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (measures how well a product blocks heat from the sun and is abbreviated SHGC) equal to or less than 0.30.

The door perimeter must have a means to control air infiltration.

The door must be expected to remain in service for at least five years and be a part of the taxpayer’s principal U.S. residence.

The homeowner’s tax credit is based on the total material cost of the purchase. The maximum credit is $1500

When looking to upgrade a garage door, one of the primary factors is R-value (ability to prevent heat loss). The higher the R-value, the higher the insulation, resulting in the most energy savings. A garage door insulated with polyurethane foam is considered one of the best choices, because it bonds to the door’s metal skin. The bonding insures the metal skin won’t separate from the insulation, resulting in air leakage.

Upon installation of a better garage door, some homeowners see the space contained within their garage in a different light. Some families choose to equip a garage with extra electrical outlets and phone jacks. In addition to traditional uses of a garage – storing cars and sports equipment – some garages are sporting a hobby area, a fitness room, a home office, laundry room, extra kitchen storage or walk-in closet. Other homeowners are thinking ahead and adding entry-ways that are wheel-chair accessible.

For more information go to our website: http://www.homeinspectioncarolina.com/

There are a few different methods for removing outdoor paint. Depending on the overall project, you’ll either want to remove all of the old paint or remove enough of it to allow a new coat of paint to adhere without the risk of chipping.

If the painted surface is wood:
When refinishing a wooden deck or fence, the best method for removing old paint is to use a power sander. A sander will take off the top layer of the wood, however be careful not to overdo it. Because the project is outdoors, ventilation is not a problem, but you should still wear a breathing mask.

If the painted surface is concrete or brick:
Concrete and brick are porous surfaces and getting paint out of all the cracks and crevices is no easy task. The best way to tackle the job is to use a steam pressure washer. This type of pressure washer uses steam which essentially melts the paint, allowing it to be washed away by the pressurized washer.

If the painted surface is metal:
It can be very difficult to remove paint from a metal surface, especially if you want to preserve the original look and quality of the metal. If scratching the surface is not a concern, then sandblasting will probably work best. If you are concerned about scratching the surface, a chemical paint stripper is ideal, but be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions regarding proper handling and use.

For more information please go to our website: http://www.homeinspectioncarolina.com/

Every season, lawn will be challenged by, varying temperatures, drought conditions or crazy insects. You should realize that even the best turf will stress and thin and this is why you need to aerate and seed annually.